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04-05-2009, 04:28 PM
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#1 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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A noob's guide to Gunpla.
I'm bored and I feel like doing something nice.
Now I'm sure a lot of you like Gundam. I'm also sure a lot of you have a favorite Gundam. Now what if you could actually have that Gundam in your room? More to the point, what if you could build it yourself and even customize it? That is the power of Gunpla. What is Gunpla? Gunpla is a portmanteu for Gundam Plastic Model. While not always about Gundams, it was Gundam that really launched this hobby. Basically, you know those little model planes and tanks you can buy and build with glue and shit? Now imagine if no glue was involved and you could build nearly any mobile suit in existance? That is Gunpla. What do you need for Gunpla? That really depends on how far you're willing to take this hobby. One of the things you'll want to buy is the Bandai Toolkit. It contains all the tools you'll need to make your first model including clippers to cut parts and a tool to get parts loose again.  You can find them online under Bandai G-tools. You'll also want some Gundam Markers. These are basically markers with a really fine tip which allows you to add detailing. You can get them in all colors but you'll want a black one. The difference between a detailed and undetailed model is huge. A small thin knife or a file could be useful for removing seams. As for the rest, you'll grow into it. More experienced tools include Putty, paint and can go as far as an airbrush. Types of Gunpla. Gunpla comes in many sizes and shapes. Usually, the models are ranked using scales. These scales represent how big the model is as opposed to the real Mobile Suit. These scales also coincide with the grades. Gundam models are ranked in grades. The higher the grade, the more detailed and bigger it is. The easiest ones are Speed Grades. These are pre-painted 1/200 models for kids. They're also great for learning the basics of modeling as there is very little room to fuck up and the result always looks awesome. The downside is that they're small. Still, they're the cheapest ones you can get and every Gundam show has speedgrades. They usually cost 6.5 euros (7.5 dollars) and you always get a good model. Their abbreviation is SG. After Speed Grades you get High Grades. High Grades are 1/144 models and are usually used for practise. They're harder to build than the speed grades but are a lot bigger. Most people start with these and nearly every mobile suit has a HG model. HG are also fairly mod-friendly thanks to their relatively low price so they're great for practising your painting/spraying skills before trying them on the more expensive models. Some HGs can be 1/100 but they're usually exceptions to the rule. While you can find HGs of any Gundam, most shops stock Gundam Wing, Seed and 00. They also stock the HGUC series which are UC models at higher quality than the usual HGs. HGs retail for 7.5 to 20 euros (8.5 to 22 dollars) depending on the store. Unlike the SGs, the price really matters since what you get is what you pay for. Don't expect a 7.5 euro model to hold a candle to a 20 euro one. Popular ones include the Wing Gundam, the RX 78-2, Char's Zaku and the Gouf. The next level is Master Grade. These are the most common ones. Master Grades are scale 1/100. The difference between HGs and MGs isn't just the size but also the quality, the number of parts and the system. MGs have a special system called Interior Frame. You build a black frame first and then latch the armor parts on to it This allows better movement and posabillity. MG models are usually only reserved for more popular models. MGs retail for 35 tot 55 euros (40-60 dollars) depending on the store and yet again... what you pay for is what you get. Most MGs come with a display stand though that depends on the price. Popular ones include Wing Zero Custom, the One Year War series and Strike Freedom. Perfect Grades are ultimate models. They're made at scale 1/60 and always have all building innovations that Bandai has at the time. Ultimate quality and ultimate posabillity are the norm here. A lot of Perfect Grades include things like leds (to make the eyes/boosters light up) and voice chips (so you can hear the pilot shout something). Because these extras require wiring, they tend to be harder to build than MGs. They also cost more. Perfect Grades start at 65 euros (75 dollars) and can go to over 350 euros. (450 dollars). Only the most popular models get the Perfect Grade treatment. Examples include the RX 78-2, Wing Zero Custom and Strike Gundam. Bandai has said they're planning an Exia and 00-Raiser one. Then there are the non-scale non-graded ones. These are usually made by other companies. Mostly so other popular robots that Bandai doesn't have licensing rights too get models. These vary in size and quality. You'll have to research these yourselves. While most of them follow the Bandai snap-fit system, some might require cement glue. A popular example here is Kotobikuya's Super Robot Wars OG series and their absurdly huge 38 cm 1/144 scale Dygengaur model. How to build a Gunpla. That's actually pretty easy. Just follow the instructions on the manual perfectly and don't fuck up. There are some techniques I could teach you but... instead of explaining them to you, I'm gonna let this mexican wrestler do it for me. He's building an MG Strike Freedom by the way. Where to start? You're probably thinking: Gee wizz Zetta. All this info! But where do I begin? Well, first get your basic supplies. The toolkit. If you can't find any, a normal knipper coupled with a toenail clipper will work well for removing excess gate material on your parts. Now, choose your Gundam. Since this is your first one... either go for a SG or an HG. You'll probably find extremely cheap Gundam Wing and Seed ones in your hobby store. While these models suck balls (the Wing Zero one can't even lift his own Double Buster Rifle or do the two handed pose because of shitty arms), they're great for trying out your skills and learning new techniques. Display your creation proudly and move up to the next one. Try one of the HGUC ones. Still relatively easy and the model looks very good. Try and make models for mecha you like. Building a model you loathe is not fun, a waste of time, money and you won't be proud of it. Stick to the ones you want. If you start having too many, get some shelves to display them or give some to your friends. Considering how underground the hobby is, even the shittiest models make great gifts.  Keep moving up and up until you finally reach the heavens and PIERCE THEM!  Last edited by Zetta; 05-21-2009 at 07:28 AM. |
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04-05-2009, 04:48 PM
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#2 |
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† Triumvir †
Jinchuuriki
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Wow, that really brings me back. I used to buy some Gundam models a couple years back. I never detailed them though except with the stickers they came with. lol But now most of my models are MIA. ;_; Haven't done a model in about 3-4 years now....
Great hobby if you can find the time for it, though.
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04-05-2009, 04:51 PM
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#3 |
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music man
Elite Teacher
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: london
Posts: 1,055
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awsome thread
will use it when i get round to buying my kits (only found one shop in london ) |
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04-05-2009, 05:56 PM
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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Model shops are a bitch to find in Europe I've noticed. Mine still has some I'm interested in and the owner is nice to order the ones I want.
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04-07-2009, 09:48 AM
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#5 |
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music man
Elite Teacher
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: london
Posts: 1,055
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what models do u have zetta?
i just brought a 1/144 gn arms still on the look out for a haro aswell |
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04-07-2009, 06:30 PM
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#6 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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HG Char's Zaku, Gelgoog, Gouf and RX-78-2
Some Gundam Wing shit HGs. MG All Wing Gundams including Epyon and Tallgeese III MG Nu Gundam HWS MG Sinanju ver Ka. MG Zeta Gundam MG Qubeley MG Sazabi PG Wing Zero Custom PG RX-78-2 One Year War Edition HG Alteisen, Wiesritter, Cybuster, Grungust Reishiki, Grungust Sanshiki, Thundgelmir, Aussenseiter Trombe and Daizengar  Still need to build a couple though. |
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04-14-2009, 01:15 PM
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#7 |
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Ashikabi
Chuunin
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 239
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How many Hg 1/144 models should I build before I move on to MG 1/100? And what marker colors would you recommend?
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04-14-2009, 06:57 PM
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#8 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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Quote:
As for colors, that depends on the model. If you just want to add some depth panel lines, use black. If you want to weather (make it look like it's been in combat), you'll want to use brown and a quetip to smear it around. If you're good with the markers, you can even do things like color parts that require stickers. Most of my HGs have the eyes and the parts that need stickers colored. The difference is extreme. The HGs are models you fuck around with really. Some of them (mostly the HGUC ones and the 20 euro+ ones) should be treated as good models since these actually get you a decent model. I recommend the HG UC Gouf en RX-78-2 for instance. The HGUC Char's Zaku however...  Not worth it. Get the MG version or if you got cash... you can't go wrong with any of the One Year War series models. |
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04-15-2009, 02:03 AM
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#9 |
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Ashikabi
Chuunin
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 239
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Interesting does an eraser really work for the mistakes? I already built a nadleeh, wishing I would of looked this up first, but I have an Arios Hg 1/144 model I'll try some of these techniques on.
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04-15-2009, 08:09 AM
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#10 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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Quote:
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04-20-2009, 05:46 PM
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#11 |
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Newbie
Academy Student
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
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Wow thanks Zetta!
...I'm guessing you're starting to have an idea that I'm really a gundam fan... haha... I also want to start my own collection of gundam models but I still don't have money at the moment.. sigh... I pity myself... But anyways, thanks for the guide... Now I'm even more anxious to start... whew... Anyways, you're always a great help! Thanks for being great...
*just a short comment* I really don't like your thread title... There's a big difference when you say NOOB and NEWB... Newb actually means a newbie, which is intended for starters... Noob on the other hand is something to insult someone who doesn't really have talent or ability on something. Somebody who should just stop doing it because it ain't for him. *I hope you didn't mean it..* I hope I helped too  * |
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04-20-2009, 08:32 PM
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#12 |
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安らかな眠りを
Elite Teacher
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,084
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Hey Zetta, what happens if I want to replace one part because one of the pieces for the model gets damaged?
 There's a piece of
__________________
 "A sword is a weapon. Kenjutsu is an art of killing. Whatever pretty words you use to speak of it, this is it's true nature." |
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04-21-2009, 02:56 AM
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#13 | |||
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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Quote:
Quote:
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Can you fix it? Some cement glue can do wonders here. Generally speaking, it's impossible to replace parts without buying a new model. Some online stores/hobby stores might sell spare parts though. |
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04-21-2009, 08:49 AM
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#14 | |
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Newbie
Academy Student
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
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Quote:
 Well, all I wanted is to clarify to everybody that you didn't mean it (*cross-fingers... hoping you really don't*) coz seeing your posts make me look at you like a *senpai*... haha... NOW EVERYBODY LISTEN UP: mr. Zetta didn't mean it ok? hehe... please don't misjudge him... hmmm... mr. Zetta, just a few questions... do I need to be good at painting or something to be able to make good models? Well, I'm not really into art you see... So I'm quite scared that making models might require some skills like that... now while you're at it, would you mind telling me the skills required in assembling nice models? Do model kits come with coloring materials? (like paint, etc. if needed?) How long does it take you to finish a satisfactory model? thanks... |
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04-21-2009, 09:16 AM
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#15 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: My own personal Netherworld.
Posts: 17,443
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Models these days come pre-painted. Meaning the parts themselves are already painted in the right color. Repainting them yourself with the perfect shades and such makes it look better but you shouldn't worry about that for now.
All you really need to make a good model is some knipper to cut the parts from the sprews and to follow instructions. As for how long it takes... Speed Grade can be done in about half an hour. A normal HG in 1.30 hours. MG can take 2-4 hours. And Perfect Grades can go from 6 tot 20 hours depending on how detailed it is. |
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04-21-2009, 04:13 PM
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#16 |
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Newbie
Academy Student
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
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arigatou gozaimas...
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08-02-2009, 03:34 PM
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#17 | |
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//Quantum
Hokage
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Quote:
I need a job. 
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08-08-2009, 10:07 AM
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#18 |
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Outskirts Trading Pimp
Legendary Ninja
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I remember making two SG back when I was eight.
They were the aforementioned shitty Wing Zero and Sandrock. Considering I have much more patience nowadays along with steadier hands I just might get back into it. |
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12-05-2009, 09:59 PM
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#19 |
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modern man
S-Class Missing-nin
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back when i lived in korea, my mum would buy me the deformed gundam ones so i'd stay out of her way for a couple hours. they were fun to make, and one of them glowed in the dark
 i once told my cousin i'd commission for a gundam model. good or bad idea?
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